During the warm summer months, adult female fleas lay 35-50 eggs a day,
laying up to 2,000 eggs in their 12 to 20 month lifetime. After an incubation
period of 2-12 days, eggs hatch into small, transparent worm-like larvae.
These feed upon organic material such as flea fecal matter and dried skin.
They are relatively mobile, crawling into warm, moist, dark areas like
cracks and crevices, litterboxes, rugs, soil, etc. After 1-2 weeks, the
larvae spin cocoons, transforming themselves into pupae. Adult fleas emerge
days to months later, depending on environmental conditions, and so the
cycle begins again. So... cleaning the environment becomes as important,
or more important, than killing the live fleas on your pet.
Steam clean carpets at the onset of flea season -
the process kills flea eggs and larvae.
Thoroughly clean and vacuum floors and carpets - if done weekly, most
eggs, larvae and pupae will be removed from your house.
Make sure to dispose of the vacuum
bag, or vacuum up some flea powder, to prevent the larvae from creeping
out of the bag.
Apply mineral salts on your carpets - Boric acid derivatives, like the
Fleabusters powder, have very low toxicity and can be effective for a
whole year, killing fleas and their developing forms by dehydration. Easy
to apply, the powder is brushed into and under bedding, furniture and
carpets, and into cracks and crevices of linoleum and hardwood floors.
Brush or sweep into infested areas and leave for 3-4 days; then vacuum.
Dehydration is not a 'quick kill' method; maximum results are usually
achieved within 3-4 weeks.
Sprinkle natural, unrefined diatomaceous earth along walls, on crevices,
under built-in furniture; the product resembles chalky rock, and attacks
the external coating of insects, causing dehydration. Wear a dust mask
when applying to prevent inhalation (it can irritate nasal passages);
apply only once or twice yearly. (Do not use the diatomaceous earth sold
for swimming pool filters since it is finely ground and can be more easily
inhaled.)
Wash your pet's bedding weekly - use hot, soapy water, and dry on high
heat. Mow and water your lawn regularly - watering drowns fleas; sunlight
kills larvae.
'Sterilize' bare earth sleeping
spots - after raking up leaves and debris, cover the area with a black
plastic bag on a sunny day: the heat created kills fleas and larvae.
Apply agricultural lime on grass and moist areas - it dehydrates fleas.
Apply powdered nematodes to grass and soil - these microscopic organisms
(and ants, as well) feed on eggs and larvae, and also control grubs. They
are usually applied every 6 weeks and are an efficient flea control method
for out-of-doors.
Bathe your pet with a natural flea control shampoo - begin by creating a
'shampoo collar' around the neck, and lather towards the tail. Leave
lather on for 7-10 minutes and rinse thoroughly. (A more prolonged bath
will wash off eggs and drown the adult fleas.) Make sure to comb head and
neck as the fleas try to reach dry ground.
Flea comb your pet as often as possible - the fine-toothed combs will
trap fleas, and you can dip the comb in hot water as you pull them out. Be
thorough especially around the head, neck, back and tail areas.
Use an herbal flea powder - a mixture of any of these powdered herbs
will work: eucalyptus, rosemary, fennel, yellow dock, wormwood, rue. Store
in a shaker-top jar and apply to the hair base as you brush backwards with
your hand. The fleas will try to jump off, so this is better done outside.
Can be done many times a week.
Use a lemon skin tonic - lemon is an effective skin toner and a parasite
repellent because it contains d-limonene, among other substances. Thinly
slice a whole lemon, including the peel. Add to a pint of near-boiling
water and steep overnight. Sponge onto your pet's skin and coat and let
air dry. Can be used daily.
Erigeron spray and Neem spray - these are herbal products that help
repel fleas.
Keep your pet healthy! Healthier animals seem to attract the least
fleas. You may want to add nutritional (brewer's) yeast and garlic to your
pet's diet.
